Yes, He’s Handsome — But He’s Not Your Model. 25 Photos of Natives in European D

Photo by Jesse H. Bratley. Source - Denver Museum of Nature & Science. / A Sioux man. South Dakota. ca. 1895-1899.

Looking at these photos, many Native Americans see the genocide of their ancestors

A story to remember: In 2014, the online holiday catalogue for Ralph Lauren’s RRL line of menswear featured vintage photos of American Indians wearing European-style clothing—jackets, vests, neckties, hats with brims. The pictures were real, and vividly documented the painful transition and assimilation of a brutalized people.

The company has taken the catalogue off its website saying in a statement, “We recognize that some of the images depicted in the RRL look book may have caused offense and we have removed them from our website.”

We can’t pretend to know what the people in pictures taken 130 years ago were thinking. We don’t know whether they “wanted” to wear these clothes or were “forced”—both are relative terms anyway. These are the survivors of a decimated population who are wearing the oppressor’s clothing—was it their choice to wear these clothes? What did they know of “choice” at all, given what many of them had witnessed and endured?

How you look at these photos has something to do with who you are. Many in fashion would see the juxtaposition, the clash of styles, the diverse threads entwining in the crazy, mixed-up cultural and aesthetic tapestry of America. Yadda yadda yadda.

Many Natives looking at these photos see the genocide of their ancestors.

Dr. Adrienne Keene writes that the people in the photos “didn’t fight and survive so they would end up on the pages of a Ralph Lauren catalog.”

“They didn’t want to wear itchy woolen vests and tight narrow shoes made for white [people],” Ruth Hopkins writes. “They had no choice. The fashion Ralph Lauren glorifies arose from oppression.”

They are important images, of beautiful people—but they don’t belong in a catalog for $300 blue jeans and $1000 jackets.

These photos were collected by Paul Ratner, director of Moses on the Mesa, and posted to his film’s Facebook page. Ratner’s acclaimed movie tells the story of Solomon Bebo, a German Jewish immigrant who became governor of Acoma Pueblo—to read an interview, see our earlier post “25 Portraits of American Indians You Might Not Have Seen (No Curtis!)”

Photo by Ernest Brown, 1895 / Red Crow, Head Chief of the Kainai (Blackfoot).

Source - Denver Public Library. / A young Oglala Lakota man. Photo from 1890-1891.

Source: Smithsonian Institution. / Nawat (Left Hand) in Partial Native Dress Holding Pipe, 1924

Photo by C.M. Bell. Source - Princeton Digital Library. / Little Robe. Cheyenne. 1871.

Photo by Alexander Gardner. Source - Princeton Digital Library. / Iron Nation (Ma-Za-O-Ya-Ti). Brule Sioux. 1867.

Photo by Alexander Gardner. / Assadawa or Esadewar. A Wichita man. 1872.

Photo by D.F. Barry. Source - Denver Public Library. / Wolf Chief & Harry Eaton. Hidatsa. Dakota Territory. 1880s.

Mi-waka-yuha aka George Sword. Oglala Lakota. 1875.

Photo by H.H. Clark. Source - Library of Congress. / Geronimo and his nieces, early 1900s.

Buffalo Bull’s Ghost. Yanktonai. 1894.

Photo by William S. Stinson. Source - National Anthropological Archives. / Bird Chief. 1867. Arapaho.

Photo by Jesse H. Bratley. Source - Denver Museum of Nature & Science. / A Sioux man. South Dakota. ca. 1895-1899.

Photo by C.M. Bell. Source - Princeton Digital Library. / Medicine Man. Cheyenne. 1877.

Oglala Chiefs American Horse (left) and Red Cloud (right). Pine Ridge Reservation, S.D. 1891.

Photo by Howard King. Source - City of Vancouver Archives. / A Cree man. ca. 1900. Alberta, Canada.

Photo by D.F. Barry. Source - Denver Public Library. / George Flying By, his wife, Hail Heart, and son, First To Kill. Hunkpapa Lakota. 1880s.

Photo by Edward Curtis. / James Garfield Velarde (“Jicarilla cowboy”), 1905.

Oiti, second Chief, Shoshone. 1884-1885.

Photo (possibly) by William Henry Jackson. / “Something Beginning To Sail Off”, also identified as Tibishko-Biness (“Like A Bird”). Chippewa man. 1877.

Photo by C.M. Bell. Source - National Anthropological Archives. / Cheyenne Men, 1880s. American Horse is 3rd from left, James Atwood is 4th from left. Jules Seminole is standing on far left.

Comanche Chief Quanah Parker and his wife, Tonasa. 1892.

A Sioux man smoking a cigarette. 1908.

Running Face aka E-Sta-Poo-Sta, Son of Red Cow. A Mandan man. 1874.

Includes High Hawk, Little Wound, Big Road, Two Strike, Fire Lighting, Young-man-afraid-of-his-horses, Spotted Elk. /Photo by C.M.Bell / Seven Sioux warriors, 1891.

Young Man from Rocky Boy Indian Reservation. Montana. Undated.

This story was originally published on December 19, 2014.

Comments (1)
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Wiizon
Wiizon

In my family photo album, there are many photos including that of my grandparents family going back to the 1860s wearing clothing such as seen in these photos....why did my family at that time wear European style clothing?....it took some serious questioning but in our family, it was found that they wore non-Indian clothing because they were shamed seriously by those immigrants settling in our area of the Great Lakes....this shame has been handed down through 3 generations and the stigma yet lingers in my family....at least in our tribe, shaming was considered one of the most serious if not the worst put-downs one could endure....



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